Birria has exploded in popularity here in the States over the past few years and for good reason. Tender, braise-y meat swimming in a rich, spicy, and acidic consomé—what’s not to love? It’s great on its own, in tacos, quesadillas, and even mixed into instant ramen cups. If your local taqueria has recently added quesabirria to their menu, it’s most likely being made with Tijuana-Style Beef Birria, which can be great, no argument there. But you know what’s even better? The GOAT birria from Jalisco: birria de chivo.

I’ve been making goat birria at my family’s restaurant, Birrieria Zaragoza in Chicago, since I was 12 years old. Like croissants, this birria is a three-day process (that’s why most folks leave it to the pros to make both). The goat is dry-brined, steamed, marinated in mole, roasted in lard, and served with a lightly fermented and simmered tomato consomé. It’s out-of-this-world delicious. And if you can’t make the trip to Chicago, now you can make it at home.