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Celery-flavored soda? Strange as it might sound, Cel-Ray—formerly known as Dr. Brown’s Celery Tonic—is a popular alternative to lemon-lime soda in the Jewish delicatessens of New York City and South Florida. Its grassy aroma and bitter, vegetal flavor has a polarizing effect on tasters: you either love it or loathe it. We’ve added a bit of fun by turning the nostalgic refreshment into a cocktail. While Cel-Ray derives its flavor from celery seed extract, we’ve taken the whole stalk and juiced it to produce an electric green juice of pure, liquid celery. Adding gin and lemon make for a cocktail reminiscent of a gimlet, the prohibition-era classic made from gin, lime and soda. The secret to properly carbonating the drink is two-fold. First, we charge the siphon with CO2 and expel the air. This purges the canister of trapped nitrogen and oxygen (gases that don’t make liquids fizzy) so the next CO2 charge can dissolve fully without interference. Second, we add ample ice, because gases like CO2 are more soluble in cold liquids than warm liquids. Besides, who likes a summer cocktail anything but ice cold?