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Brining and chilling albacore tuna yields a delectably firm, toothsome bite that’s otherwise hard to get with this soft fish. The salt and sugar in the brine help plump and firm the fish so it doesn’t fall apart as it normally would when heated.Here, the fish is lightly cooked in olive oil with lemon peel, adding depth of flavor and a bit of brightness that complement its natural brine. We slice and serve ours in large pieces, which look and taste much better than the frozen, shredded stuff out of a can. This technique brings out the best in albacore in particular, but you can sub in any fish you like—firm or flaky.