Jonathan Zaragoza is a Chicago-based chef who got his start in professional kitchens working at the Michelin-starred Sepia and Sixteen, before becoming the chef of Masa Azul at 22. Jonathan’s path has taken him throughout Mexico, deep into its rich culinary heritage, to bring its traditions with him to London, Dubai, Paris, and the U.S.

Jonathan Zaragoza

Birria has exploded in popularity here in the States over the past few years and for good reason. Tender, braise-y meat swimming in a rich, spicy, and acidic consomé—what’s not to love? It’s great on its own, in tacos, quesadillas, and even mixed into instant ramen cups. If your local taqueria has recently added <a href="https://www.chefsteps.com/activities/quesabirria">quesabirria</a> to their menu, it’s most likely being made with <a href="https://www.chefsteps.com/activities/beef-birria">Tijuana-Style Beef Birria</a>, which can be great, no argument there. But you know what’s even better? The GOAT birria from Jalisco: birria de chivo.I’ve been making goat birria at my family’s restaurant, <a href="https://www.birrieriazaragoza.com/">Birrieria Zaragoza</a> in Chicago, since I was 12 years old. Like <a href="https://www.chefsteps.com/activities/the-secret-to-mastering-croissants-at-home">croissants</a>, this birria is a three-day process (that’s why most folks leave it to the pros to make both). The goat is dry-brined, steamed, marinated in mole, roasted in lard, and served with a lightly fermented and simmered tomato consomé. It’s out-of-this-world delicious. And if you can’t make the trip to Chicago, now you can make it at home.

Jalisco-Style Goat Birria