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Also known as _gløgg_ in Norway, _glühwein_ in Germany, _vin chaud_ in France, and _Глинтвейн_ in Russia, this ubiquitous winter warmer enjoys a versatile reputation as both a good way to get rid of cheap wine and a luxurious holiday treat. You might just as well encounter the stuff in a dive bar as at a fancy Christmas party, and the truth is that it’s equally at home in both places. Mulled wine has survived throughout the centuries in cultures worldwide for good reason: there’s still nothing better than a hot, spicy cocktail on a chilly night. Ancient Romans are thought to have originally developed recipes for mulled wine for two reasons: first, to flaunt expensive foreign spices such as cinnamon and clove; and second, to mask an overly strong or sour wine. For this elevated version, we start with a bottle of decent full-bodied wine (try zinfandel, syrah, or cabernet) and add Angostura bitters, sweet vermouth, and whole spices for a rich, sophisticated flavor profile that works well as a lavish holiday goodie or a casual winter warmer. Be careful not to simmer too long, and keep the lid on the pot, or you’ll evaporate all the alcohol. (After all, what’s a good mulled wine without a good buzz to match?) And whether you’re serving it to distinguished guests or your sloppiest drinking buddies, good hosts in every country serve it piping hot.