Ice Cream Class

Nicholas Gavin is the Culinary Creative Director of ChefSteps, where he develops recipes and is responsible for making all the food look beautiful. Nick has worked at ChefSteps for over a decade; he and ChefSteps co-founder Grant Crilly worked together at Modernist Cuisine. Nick has worked in professional kitchens both in the United States and abroad, most notably at Mugaritz in San Sebastian, Spain.

Nicholas Gavin

3-quart Saucepan

The Control Freak™ Home

Digital instant-read thermometer

Breville Super Q™

Fine-mesh strainer

Breville Bakery Chef™ Stand Mixer

Disposable piping bag

5/8-inch Plain piping tip

Whole milk

Granulated sugar

Heavy cream

Nonfat dry milk powder

Kosher salt

Vanilla extract

Vanilla extract: We recommend buying “pure” or “single fold” vanilla extract, such as the ones from <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000VLU1W?tag=chefsteps02-20">Nielsen-Massey</a> or <a href="https://www.heilalavanilla.com/">Heilala</a>. The ingredient list should have just vanilla bean, alcohol, and water. While imitation vanilla extract like the one from <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005SSO7SA/?tag=chefsteps02-20">McCormick</a> will work in a pinch, the flavor isn’t as pronounced or complex as pure vanilla extract.
 
Nonfat dry milk powder: Nonfat dry milk powder increases the amount of “milk solids-not-fat” (MSNF) in the base—primarily protein and lactose—without increasing the amount of water and milk fat in the mix. When heated, the protein hydrates and binds up water in the base, which helps create a creamier, smoother ice cream. Lactose contributes to freezing point depression without having a noticeable effect on the perceived sweetness of the ice cream (lactose is 20 to 40% as sweet as sucrose). Nonfat dry milk powder cannot be substituted with whole or malted milk powders.

Making ice cream with a CREAMi or Pacojet: We give the option of using a Ninja CREAMi or Pacojet to “spin” the ice cream base. If you use one of these machines, you’ll need to add 12 hours to the total preparation time, as the base has to be frozen solid in Step 4 before spinning.

For the full scoop on ice cream, check out our <a href="https://www.chefsteps.com/classes/ice-cream">ice cream class</a> and <a href="https://www.chefsteps.com/activities/ice-cream-parametric">parametric analysis</a>! 
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Parametric analysis of vanilla ice creams

Ice Cream: A Parametric Analysis

Before we begin

In a 3-quart saucepan, whisk together milk, sugar, cream, milk powder, and salt until well combined. Set over medium heat and cook, stirring and scraping bottom of pan with spatula frequently, until sugar is fully dissolved and ice cream base registers [f 165] on an instant-read thermometer, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat.

Heat soft serve base

Transfer ice cream base to the jar of a countertop blender. Blend on medium speed until completely smooth, stopping to scrape down sides of blender as needed, about 1 minute. Alternatively, blend base with an immersion blender. Transfer base to a large bowl or heatproof container.

Blend soft serve base

Blending the ice cream base may seem like an unnecessary step, since it may look fairly homogenous after it’s been cooked. But blending “homogenizes” the base, splitting up the fat globules into tinier droplets and disrupting the layer of proteins that can adsorb (attach, basically) to the outside of the droplets.

There are a couple mechanisms at work, and while shearing the fat droplets is more intuitive, blending also helps to dissolve milk solids throughout the base. Whey and emulsifiers will disrupt the groups of casein proteins that surround the fat globules and prevent them from coming together, or coalescing. This allows the fat globules to crystallize when frozen, which in turn increases the amount of air trapped in the base when it’s churned into ice cream.

Blend the base for better ice cream.

Prepare an ice bath in a large bowl and set container with base over it. Stir in vanilla extract. Chill base, stirring occasionally to speed up cooling process, until it registers below [f 60], about 20 minutes.

Cover and refrigerate base until it registers below [f 40], at least 4 hours. For best results, “age” base by refrigerating it for at least 12 hours. Base can be refrigerated for up to 1 week before churning.

Chill soft serve base

Vanilla extract is about 38% alcohol, and the alcohol-soluble aroma compounds that give vanilla its complex flavor are very volatile. To ensure those volatile aromas are preserved in the ice cream, we add vanilla extract to the base after it’s been heated.

For maximum vanilla impact, add extract off-heat.

<a href="https://www.chefsteps.com/activities/tips-tricks-the-secret-to-super-smooth-scoopable-ice-cream">Aging (aka curing or resting)</a> an ice cream base in the fridge overnight before churning is an optional step that we strongly recommend.

Aging improves the ability of an ice cream base to trap air during churning, a phenomenon known as overrun. As the ice cream base chills, tiny fat globules suspended in the emulsion have a chance to harden. Destabilized fat globules (that is, fat globules that are surrounded by both casein proteins and weaker emulsifiers, like lecithin or whey) crystalize when they harden, which makes them more likely to stick to one another, which in turn helps to trap air in the ice cream base as it churns.

Fat begins to crystalize at [f 40], and this is the minimum (i.e., maximum) temperature to chill an ice cream base to before churning. Chilling 1 quart of base to [f 40] takes about 4 hours in the fridge.
 
Chilling (aging) the base overnight gets it well below [f 40], which in turn maximizes fat crystallization and speeds up the churning process. If you have the time, we recommend aging ice cream bases for at least 12 hours before churning. 
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Want one simple trick to getting the smoothest, most scoopable ice cream ever? This is that.

Tips & Tricks: The Secret to Super-Smooth, Scoopable Ice Cream

For the best ice cream, age the base.

If using a Pacojet or CREAMi to make ice cream, divide chilled base evenly between beakers and freeze until completely solid, at least 12 hours.

Freeze base if using a Pacojet or CREAMi (optional)

If using a stand mixer and dry ice or liquid nitrogen (our favorite): Transfer chilled base to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and churn using <a href="https://www.chefsteps.com/activities/making-ice-cream-with-dry-ice">dry ice</a> or <a href="https://www.chefsteps.com/activities/liquid-nitrogen-churned-ice-cream">liquid nitrogen</a>, following instructions in our guides.
 
If using a Pacojet or CREAMi: Spin beakers of frozen base following manufacturer’s instructions until mixture resembles thick soft serve ice cream. For Ninja CREAMi, spin once on “Sorbet” setting, then use “Re-Spin” function to spin again.
 
If using a countertop ice cream maker: Transfer chilled base to ice cream maker and churn following manufacturer’s instructions until mixture resembles thick soft serve ice cream and registers [f 21] or colder.

CAUTION: If using liquid nitrogen, please make sure you’ve read our page on <a href="https://www.chefsteps.com/activities/frozen-cryogenic-poaching-with-liquid-nitrogen">how to safely handle liquid nitrogen</a>.
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How to make ice cream with dry ice and a stand mixer.

How to Make Ice Cream With Dry Ice

How to make ice cream with liquid nitrogen in a stand mixer.

How to Make Ice Cream With Liquid Nitrogen

Churn soft serve ice cream

Transfer soft serve ice cream to a piping bag fitted with a 5/8-inch plain piping tip. Pipe into cones or cups and serve with toppings of your choice.

If not serving immediately, transfer piping bag to freezer and chill for up to 30 minutes before serving.

NOTE: If using the dry ice stand mixer method, once ice cream is churned to desired consistency, transfer mixer bowl to freezer and let rest for at least 15 minutes to allow any remaining pieces of dry ice to sublimate before loading the ice cream into a piping bag and serving.

Pipe and serve

Step 1: Make the base
Combine all ingredients in the pitcher of a blender (or other container—see note). 

Blend to combine ingredients, about 1 minute. 

Cover and reserve in the fridge until you’re ready to churn.

NOTE: If you don’t have a blender, use an immersion blender. If you don’t have an immersion blender, use a whisk. Just be sure to whisk away any clumps of milk powder that form in the mix.

CHEF’S TIP: For extra-smooth, longer-lasting soft serve, transfer your base to the stove and heat to 176 °F / 80 °C. (This is totally optional, but it will help dissolve the milk proteins from the dry milk powder, meaning you won’t wind up with any grains or chunks in your ice cream.) Once the base is heated to 176 °F / 80 °C, remove from stove and chill thoroughly before you churn.

Step 2: Break down the dry ice
Carefully transfer your dry ice to a burlap sack, a clean tote bag, or even a bath towel, and wrap it up completely. 

With a heavy cast iron pan or a hammer, crush dry ice into a fine powder.

Transfer crushed dry ice to a plastic bowl or Tupperware container.

Step 3: Churn
Pour your ice cream base into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and begin mixing on low. 

Add dry ice one spoonful at a time. Allow foam and steam to dissipate, then add another spoonful.

NOTE: Adding too much too fast will lead to a big pile of bubbling ice cream all over your work surface. Nobody wants that. Go slow. Seriously. 

Keep adding spoonfuls of dry ice until the ice cream begins to thicken. When it does, increase mixing speed, continuing to add spoonfuls of dry ice until your ice cream is rich, thick, and creamy. (You may need less than 900 g or slightly more; it depends on many different factors. So just go slow and eyeball it—when your ice cream looks like soft serve, it probably is!) 

CHEF’S TIP: The bottom of the stand mixer bowl tends to get frozen solid, causing ice cream to stick to the bottom. This won’t hurt your results, but if you want to get every last bit of soft serve, use a blowtorch or other heat source to heat the bottom of the bowl and free up the frozen chunks of ice cream.

Tip: What about my ice cream maker?
It may surprise you to learn that dry ice and a stand mixer will create better ice cream than you can achieve with your average home churner. That’s because a key objective in making any style of ice cream is to build a network of ice crystals that are as small as possible—this happens when the mix is frozen quickly and while in motion; that is, during churning. Whether the final product is airy or dense, eggy or not, high fat or low fat, the freezing process should be optimized for the formation of small crystals, meaning the ice cream will be smooth, creamy, and not too cold on the palate. This is why using super-cold liquid nitrogen, or the more easily sourced dry ice, results in much better ice cream than is possible with most home ice cream machines, which simply cannot remove enough heat energy fast enough to quickly freeze the mix.

CAUTION: Please make sure you’ve read our <a href="https://www.chefsteps.com/activities/frozen-cryogenic-poaching-with-liquid-nitrogen">page</a> on how to safely handle liquid nitrogen.

Step 4: Transfer to piping bag
Scoop soft serve into a piping bag and store in the freezer until you’re ready to serve.

Step 5: Serve that stuff!
Break out the sprinkles and chopped nuts. It’s time for an epic snack.

Milk

Sugar

Salt

The original recipe

Soft serve ice cream is best enjoyed immediately after churning.

Ice cream base can be made in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 week before churning.

Make-ahead and storage

Soft serve ice cream should be light on the palate, but rich and creamy in texture. Achieving this contrast requires a base packed with milk solids but relatively little sugar. (“Relatively” being the operative word—it’s ice cream, after all. There’s going to be some sugar involved.) It’s now a well-known formula originally developed by rival ice cream monarchs Carvel and Dairy Queen, both of which claim to have invented the refreshing treat back in the 1930s. With the right formula and a little ingenuity, you can make amazing soft serve at home—no commercial machine required. Here’s what you will need: your trusty stand mixer and some <a href="https://www.chefsteps.com/activities/making-ice-cream-with-dry-ice">dry ice</a> or <a href="https://www.chefsteps.com/activities/liquid-nitrogen-churned-ice-cream">liquid nitrogen</a>. Never worked with dry ice? Think of it as ice cream rocket fuel—its super-cold properties allow you to chill and churn at record speed, which is the key to super-smooth ice cream. And the best part is that you can pick up dry ice for cheap at your local supermarket or big-box store. Make sure to stock up on sprinkles while you’re at it—we have a feeling this is going to be a big summer for soft serve at your house. EDITORS’ NOTE: We’ve updated this recipe to reduce the yield and streamlined and improved the process of making the base. If you don’t want to use the stand mixer method with dry ice or liquid nitrogen, we’ve also provided multiple options for churning the ice cream. If you prefer to use the original recipe, we’ve included it as a tip at the end of the recipe before the make-ahead and storage instructions.

Soft Serve Ice Cream