Kyl Haselbauer has 20 years of experience working in fine-dining and modernist kitchens, including Bar Cotto and Anchovies &amp; Olives in Seattle. He is also the owner of Bright Spot, a café and coffee shop in Seattle.

Kyl Haselbauer

A great cheese sauce should be smooth, creamy, and most importantly, it should taste like cheese. Can Tex-Mex queso and American whiz fit that bill? Absolutely. Those sauces are made with processed cheese that can be easily melted into a smooth, stable state thanks to melting salts such as sodium citrate. When heated with cheese and a little liquid, melting salts swap in sodium for the calcium bound to casein proteins in cheese, allowing the proteins to unravel and strengthen the emulsion of fat and water in the sauce. Alpine-style fondue achieves a similar effect with the help of tartaric acid found in wine, which also loosens tightly wound casein proteins.This take on nacho cheese riffs on some of my favorite cheese sauces. It starts as a classic French Mornay—béchamel fortified with shredded cheese—but then takes a little inspiration from fondue and ends with a nod to cheese in a can. Serrano chiles give the sauce some serious heat, while white wine lends it sweet acidity to balance that kick. After blending it smooth, you can use it right away for some killer mac and cheese or as a dip for <a href="https://www.chefsteps.com/activities/soft-pretzels">soft pretzels</a>, or I give the option of charging it in a whipping siphon if you like the idea of a cheese sauce with a super-light silky finish.

Spicy Serrano Cheese Sauce